Sea buckthorn oil (fruit and seed): SAP value and fatty acids

Sea buckthorn oil (fruit and seed) has a saponification value of 191.25 mg KOH/g. One gram needs 0.136 g of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) for bar soap or 0.191 g of potassium hydroxide (KOH) for liquid soap to turn fully into soap, before any superfat.

Key numbers

SAP, NaOH
0.136339 g per g oil
SAP, KOH
0.19125 g per g oil
Saponification value
191.25 mg KOH/g
INCI name
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit/Seed Oil

Example: 100 g of Sea buckthorn oil (fruit and seed) with no superfat needs 13.6 g of 100% NaOH, or 19.1 g of 100% KOH. A 5% superfat uses 5% less.

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In soap

Its main fatty acids in our cited profile are palmitic (26.8%) and oleic (17.8%). The eight fatty acids used in soap-quality scores make up 63.3% of the profile.

On its own it scores 29 for hardness, 0 for cleansing and 35 for conditioning, with a saturated : unsaturated split of 29 : 35.

Both sources describe fruit (berry) oil; no number specific to a seed-plus-berry blend was found. Strongly orange; can stain. Use at low levels. Published sources for this oil differ by more than 3%, so checking your supplier's certificate of analysis matters more than usual.

Fatty-acid profile

Fatty acid% of fatty acidsCounts toward
lauric0%hardness, cleansing, bubbly lather
myristic0.3%hardness, cleansing, bubbly lather
palmitic26.8%hardness, creamy lather
stearic1.6%hardness, creamy lather
ricinoleic0%conditioning, bubbly and creamy lather
oleic17.8%conditioning
linoleic10.7%conditioning
linolenic6.1%conditioning

Basis: Mean of two commercial seed/berry-pulp oil blends (SBO2, SBO4; softgel supplements) in Correa et al. 2026 Table 1.

Soap-quality scores (this oil alone)

Hardness29
Cleansing0
Conditioning35
Bubbly lather0
Creamy lather28

Each score adds up certain fatty acids, the way Soap Ledger scores a whole recipe. They are for comparing recipes; they don't predict how a bar will feel, and they say nothing about safety or skin.

Sources

SAP value: 191.25 mg KOH/g (Median of sources' mgKoh_mid (no Codex/pharmacopoeia standard found)), from Saponification Chart, From Nature With Love (soap/cosmetic supplier). Printed value: 180 - 195 mg KOH/g.

Published values we checked:

Fatty acids: Correa M. et al. (2026) Palmitoleic acid content and composition-based nutritional quality of commercial omega-7 oils and supplements. Front Nutr. doi:10.3389/fnut.2026.1871452, Frontiers (open access, peer-reviewed). Also checked: Wiley (open access, peer-reviewed) (Table 10, 'US, obtained from the seeds and skins' column).

NaOH and KOH values are converted from mg KOH/g with the molar masses 39.997 and 56.106 and rounded to 6 decimals, exactly as in the Soap Ledger app. Real oils vary by origin, grade and lot: check your supplier's certificate of analysis. Verify every weight before you make this, and follow lye safety. Not a safety or compliance certification.

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