Rosehip seed oil: SAP value and fatty acids
Rosehip seed oil has a saponification value of 189 mg KOH/g. One gram needs 0.135 g of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) for bar soap or 0.189 g of potassium hydroxide (KOH) for liquid soap to turn fully into soap, before any superfat.
Key numbers
- SAP, NaOH
- 0.134735 g per g oil
- SAP, KOH
- 0.189 g per g oil
- Saponification value
- 189 mg KOH/g
- Iodine value
- 170
- INS
- 19
- INCI name
- Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Example: 100 g of Rosehip seed oil with no superfat needs 13.5 g of 100% NaOH, or 18.9 g of 100% KOH. A 5% superfat uses 5% less.
In soap
Its main fatty acids in our cited profile are linoleic (51.1%) and linolenic (21.4%). The eight fatty acids used in soap-quality scores make up 97.7% of the profile.
On its own it scores 6 for hardness, 0 for cleansing and 92 for conditioning, with a saturated : unsaturated split of 6 : 92.
Rich in linoleic and linolenic acids; prone to rancidity. Use at low levels.
Fatty-acid profile
| Fatty acid | % of fatty acids | Counts toward |
|---|---|---|
| lauric | 0% | hardness, cleansing, bubbly lather |
| myristic | 0% | hardness, cleansing, bubbly lather |
| palmitic | 3.7% | hardness, creamy lather |
| stearic | 2.2% | hardness, creamy lather |
| ricinoleic | 0% | conditioning, bubbly and creamy lather |
| oleic | 19.3% | conditioning |
| linoleic | 51.1% | conditioning |
| linolenic | 21.4% | conditioning |
Basis: Eren et al. 2023 Table 4, commercial cold-pressed rosehip seed oil (Turkey).
Soap-quality scores (this oil alone)
| Hardness | 6 |
|---|---|
| Cleansing | 0 |
| Conditioning | 92 |
| Bubbly lather | 0 |
| Creamy lather | 6 |
| Iodine | 170 |
| INS | 19 |
Each score adds up certain fatty acids, the way Soap Ledger scores a whole recipe. They are for comparing recipes; they don't predict how a bar will feel, and they say nothing about safety or skin.
Sources
SAP value: 189 mg KOH/g (Median of sources' mgKoh_mid (no Codex/pharmacopoeia standard found)), from Eren T., Ok S., Yilmaz E. (2023) Comprehensive characterization of physicochemical, thermal, compositional, and sensory properties of cold-pressed rosehip seed oil. Grasas y Aceites 74(4):e534. doi:10.3989/gya.0533231, CSIC (peer-reviewed, open access). Printed value: 193.47 ± 2.22 mg KOH/g.
Published values we checked:
- 185 - 193 mg KOH/g — From Nature With Love (soap/cosmetic supplier)
- 188 mg KOH/g — The Soapery (UK soap supplier)
- 193.47 ± 2.22 mg KOH/g — CSIC (peer-reviewed, open access)
Fatty acids and iodine: Eren T., Ok S., Yilmaz E. (2023) Comprehensive characterization of physicochemical, thermal, compositional, and sensory properties of cold-pressed rosehip seed oil. Grasas y Aceites 74(4):e534. doi:10.3989/gya.0533231, CSIC (open access, peer-reviewed).
NaOH and KOH values are converted from mg KOH/g with the molar masses 39.997 and 56.106 and rounded to 6 decimals, exactly as in the Soap Ledger app. Real oils vary by origin, grade and lot: check your supplier's certificate of analysis. Verify every weight before you make this, and follow lye safety. Not a safety or compliance certification.
Last updated .